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- Proud of my days.
The Notebook Apr. 26, 2024 & May 10, 2024 at the Gerald Schoenfeld Theater *** 有雷慎入 *** 2004年上映的經典浪漫愛情電影《手札情緣》終於被改編成音樂劇了!其實說實在的,我沒有特別喜歡電影版。兩小無猜的清純愛戀,迅速升溫到穀倉裡的偷嚐禁果,這轉變太大,沒有太合我的胃口🤣。但是不可否認的,電影版真的很紅,也被視為是經典作品。所以當初聽說會改編成音樂劇的時候,還是讓我很期待。畢竟音樂劇版本也有可能把劇情改得更合我胃口一點。結果想不到雖然音樂劇劇情基本上跟電影很像,音樂劇的編排讓我覺得好看到不行。 跟電影版最大的不同是,電影版裡面只有分成兩組男女主角:年輕的和年長的。而音樂劇則用了三組男女主角來演繹三個不同的階段:第一次相遇、好幾年後再次相遇、很久很久以後。其實我剛拿到節目單看到這樣的設計的時候,還覺得很疑惑,擔心太多主角會讓人看不懂。不過看完之後就覺得這個設計太美妙了。很幸運地,我兩次看到的都是原班人馬,覺得選角選得好到不行。這次的選角似乎是採用百老匯越來越常見的色盲選角方式,不再在意演員的膚色。兩個年輕的男主角和年長的女主角是白人,兩個年輕的女主角和年長的男主角則是黑人。但是這樣搭配太剛好,好像也不是完全的色盲選角。不過我也沒有聽說這樣的特別搭配有什麼用意。但不管怎麼樣,他們的演出都太精彩了。 大概是電影版實在太不合我的胃口,我完全忘了故事跟阿茲海默症有關。想不到20年前的電影 (30年前的小說),就已經開始探討阿茲海默症了。而這個手札,就是得了阿茲海默症的女主角Allie,為了找回自己,把自己和男主角Noah的愛情故事紀錄下來,讓Noah可以常常念這個故事給她聽,幫助她找回記憶。整個故事記錄著Allie在各個不同的階段尋找自己。年輕的Allie情竇初開,在尋找與確定自己的感受 (If This Is Love);幾年後的Allie已經快要嫁人,得在兩個男人、兩種生活之間做選擇,在尋找自己到底想要什麼 (What Happens, My Days);年老的Allie得了阿茲海默症,在努力找回自己的記憶 (I Wanna Go Back, I Know)。Noah則是一個,一直都很確定自己要什麼的瀟灑男子。年輕的Noah對Allie一見鍾情,立刻告白已經勇氣爆棚 (Carry You Home),還迅速指定以後要一起住的房子 (Blue Shutters);幾年後的Noah,明明一直對Allie念念不忘 (Leave the Light On),但在撞見Allie跟另一個男人幸福快樂的模樣後,毅然決然給出不打擾的溫柔;卻又在Allie突然出現在曾經約定的小屋時,看到一線希望而奮不顧身挽留Allie (Forever, It's Not Easy);年老的Noah,每天最重要的事 ,就是對著不認得他的Allie,唸著手札裡他們兩個的愛情故事,堅定相信他的Allie會再次回到他的身邊。 我想我會覺得這部劇好看到不行 , 除了因為歌大部分是我很喜歡的抒情路線之外,很大的一點是,詞曲和舞台的編排,能夠把角色們在不同時空的情感串在一起。在好些個瞬間,讓情緒的體驗有了多層次的豐富感。整齣劇數一數二感人的場景,是接近尾聲的時候,Allie和Noah的生命來到了終點,三個時期的Allie和Noah在台上,前後連成一線的擁吻。搭配不同時期的歌曲的和聲,完美呈現生命最後一刻人生跑馬燈的感覺。這不是永恆的愛情的話,我不知道什麼是永恆的愛情😭。 另一個一定要提的亮點,就是幾年後的Allie 在迷惘失落的時候唱的My Days。歌本身就好聽到不行,飾演幾年後的Allie的Joy Woods在台上的走位、和樂團越漸豐富的聲響堆疊,然後在唱到 I ripped it apart 的時候加上把空氣撕裂的堅定,整個讓人想為Allie找到自己而喝采。 最後想要誇獎一下他們的其中一個紀念商品:精美小盒面紙!讓你看秀可以放心流淚不怕妝會花掉!我常常覺得很多百老匯秀都莫名沒有出我會想買的紀念品,這個面紙我覺得合適又幽默到不行。最後一場在百老匯的表演是2024年12月15日。大家快點抓緊機會去讓淚腺疏通一下吧! My Days https://youtu.be/hfPyHiWIhDQ Where am I? Where am I going? 我在哪? 我要去哪? Is it somewhere that I want to go? 是個我想去的地方嗎? And when I get there, is that where happy is? 當我到達,那會是我幸福快樂的所在嗎? Or is it somewhere I already know? 還是是個我已經熟悉的地方? Sometimes I feel like I cry without a noise 有時候我覺得 , 我沒有理由就流淚 Sometimes I feel like somebody chose my choice 有時候我覺得,別人在幫我做選擇 I have to run away 我必須逃離 I have to sit and stay 我必須坐等原地 I wanna live a life where I'm allowed to say 我想要過一個,我能夠說 That I'm proud of the way that I spent my days 我對自己怎麼消磨時光,感到驕傲的生活 I can feel something growing 我能感覺,有什麼在長大 It is small but it's shifting the ground 它小小的,但它正在讓地面游移 When I was younger, I could hear it 當我還年輕的時候, 我曾經能聽見它 But it's back, it's my sound 而它回來了,它是我的聲響 Sometimes I feel like I lost my only voice 有時候我覺得我失去了我唯一的聲音 But then I realized, only I can choose my choice 但我了解到,只有我能做我的選擇 I have to run away 我必須逃離 I have to sit and stay 我必須坐等原地 I really wanna live a life where I'm allowed to say 我真的想要過一個,我能夠說 That I'm proud of the way that I spent my days 我對自己怎麼消磨時光,感到驕傲的生活 These days, all we ever really get are 這些日子,我們一直以來真的得到的,就是這些 Days to dream, and days to lose 做美夢的日子,拿來揮霍的日子 I just need to choose my time 我只是需要選擇我的時間 I have to run away 我必須逃離 I have to stay 我必須留下 I'm gonna live a life where I am proud to say 我會去過一個,我能夠感到驕傲的生活 That I followed my joy 驕傲地說我跟隨了我的喜悅 I followed my heart 我跟隨了我的心 I lived this one wild life, but I ripped it apart 我曾經過著一個狂野的生活,但我毅然將它撕碎 I pushed through the corners, with no apologies 我衝撞了各個角落,一點都不感到抱歉 And finally I can say I know the way 所以最後我能說,我知道該怎麼走 I'll say that I love the way that I spent my days 我會說我很愛我怎麼消磨我的時光 *** Spoiler alert *** The classic 2004 romance movie The Notebook has finally been adapted into a musical! I actually did not really like the movie that much. Young, sweet, innocent love turning quickly into consummation in a barn just seemed too adventurous for my taste🤣. That said, the movie was undoubtedly popular and still is considered a classic. So when I heard that there would be a musical adaptation, I was thrilled. After all, the musical could have a different storyline that I would like more. To my surprise, even though the plot was very similar to the movie, the musical version totally fascinated me. The biggest difference is that the movie only has 2 sets of actors: young and old, while the musical version has 3: younger, middle, and older. When I first got the playbill for the musical and saw the list of characters, I was a little unsure of such design because too many leads might make it look chaotic. But the design was actually amazing. Luckily, the two times I saw the show, they were both with the originating cast, and it was perfect casting. It seemed to be color-blind casting that was more and more common on Broadway, where the color of an actor was not a determining factor anymore. Younger and middle Noah and older Allie were white; younger and middle Allie and older Noah were black. One might reasonably argue that this is perfectly paired and not completely color-blind casting. I agree but I didn't hear any special stories about such perfect pairing. Whatever the case, the performance of the actors was really wonderful. Perhaps it was that I didn't really like the movie, I had completely forgotten that the story was about Alzheimer's. I didn't expect that Alzheimer's was already a topic 20 years ago (30 years ago for the novel). The notebook mentioned in the title, is a notebook that the protagonist Allie, who has Alzheimer's, prepared in order to find her way back. She wrote down the stories between her and Noah so that Noah could read to her from the notebook to help her find her memories back. It is a story about love, but not just about love. It is also a story about how Allie finds herself at different stages of life. Younger Allie experiences her first love, trying to figure out how she really feels (If This Is Love). Years later when middle Allie is about to get married, she tries to figure out what she wants, having to choose between 2 men, 2 ways of life (What Happens, My Days). Older Allie tries to find her way back home with Alzheimer's blocking her memories (I Wanna Go Back, I Know). Noah, on the other hand, is a dashing man who always knows what he wants. Younger Noah has a crush on Allie, expresses his feelings right away (Carry You Home), and soon after invites Allie to imagine living together with him (Blue Shutters). Middle Noah, despite still having feelings for Allie (Leave the Light On), decides in a blink of an eye to not bother Allie after seeing her happily with a man. When Allie unexpectedly showed up at the door step of the house he promised her when they first met, middle Noah sees a silver lining and tries to win her back (Forever, It's Not Easy). Older Noah, convinced that Allie will be back, reads their love stories as a daily ritual to the Allie that no longer recognizes him. I think a big part that makes me love this musical so much, aside from the profuse use of ballads, is that the songs and the movements on the stage help to weave together the emotions of characters from different times. That, in numerous moments, enables an experience of emotions with many layers and to a fuller extent. One of the most moving scenes is when Allie and Noah's journey on earth has come to an end. The 3 phases of Allie and Noah line up on the stage and kiss. Along with the songs and choruses from different times, it is a perfect display of life flashing through one's eyes before one takes the final breath. If this is not eternal love, I don't know what is 😭. Another highlight of the show, is the song My Days that middle Allie sings when she is lost in her struggle. The song itself is already beautiful. With Joy Woods, the original middle Allie, roaming on the stage, the progressively fuller sound from the band, and the action of ripping apart the air at the moment the song comes to "I ripped it apart", it is for sure a moment where everyone in the audience celebrates her finding herself. I also must give a shout-out to the show about their merch: Mini box of tissue paper! No need to worry about tears ruining your make-up! I actually find it strange that many Broadway shows don't have merch that I thought they could have made, but this box of tissue paper is super fitting and humorous. Their final performance on Broadway is Dec. 15, 2024. Go see it and cry your heart out!
- 坐擁國王湖和阿爾卑斯山的Berchtesgaden, Germany [Act 2]
Date of visit: 2024.7.26-29 #Berchtesgaden #Germany #Ramsau #Alps #Hintersee #EaglesNest #DokumentationszentrumObersalzberg -- Brief summary in English at the end of post -- Day 1 慕尼黑Munich -- Berchtesgaden Day 2 國王湖 Königssee Day 3 藍紹Ramsau、辛特湖Hintersee、鷹巢Eagle's Nest、上薩爾斯堡文獻博物館 Day 4 (緩衝日) Berchtesgaden -- 薩爾斯堡Salzburg 藍紹 & 辛特湖踩點時間: Berchtesgaden Hbf 火車站 -- 15分鐘 公車846 -- 藍紹教堂Ramsau Kirche 藍紹教堂Ramsau Kirche -- 50分鐘 散步 -- [ 魔法森林Zauberwald] -- 10分鐘 散步 -- 辛特湖Hintersee -- 45分鐘湖邊散步 辛特湖Hintersee -- 20分鐘 公車846 -- Berchtesgaden Hbf 火車站 藍紹 & 辛特湖注意事項: 藍紹教堂要早上去才會順光。 廁所最好在教堂附近上。特別是星期天很多店都沒有開。 辛特湖的公車班次比較少。有時候是一個小時一班。 大概是前一天在國王湖都把好運用完了,隔天一早就發生了網路上的公車時刻表和公車站布告欄時刻表不一樣的烏龍。虧我前一天晚上還特地用網路確定公車時間,早上也早早吃完早餐。到了公車站才發現公車還要40分鐘才會來😭。推薦大家抓到機會,就先把公車站布告欄的時刻表拍照拍下來,不要太相信網路。[有需要的話,請留下 你的電子信箱 索取我拍的公車時刻表 (2024年7月底)] 這天天氣沒有特別好。趁等公車的空檔,到附近走走,結果走著走著就下雨了。幸好到藍紹教堂的時候,雨只有小小一兩滴。到藍紹的公車846上有先進的螢幕告訴乘客下一站是什麼。藍紹教堂的這站除了德文站名廣播(Ramsau Kirche),也有特別加了英文站名廣播(Ramsau Church)。應該不用擔心會下錯站。 一下車就會發現漂亮的教堂在右手邊。如果想拍到經典的藍紹教堂和阿爾卑斯山,就得過馬路,往回走一點。然後就會看到小溪和一座只有單邊扶手的橋。過橋之後或是在橋上,就可以看到明信片般的景色。可惜這天的雲好低,好一部分的山被雲擋住😢。教堂後面有一個小步道,通往教堂的墓園。墓園在小山坡上,可以看看不一樣的風景。 拍完逛完教堂之後,可以開始走往魔法森林和辛特湖。步道就在溪邊,應該不會錯過。一路上除了美麗的森林和潺潺的溪水聲,偶爾還會有迷你畫標誌,介紹之前來訪畫家的作品和靈感來源。途中還有一個很特別的自動木偶秀,迷你水車搭配很多不同的主題,是個很可愛的藝術作品,走累了可以在這邊小小休息一下,算是個體驗人文自然合一的點。 結果快到魔法森林的時候,又來了一個陰天霹靂,魔法森林竟然因為之前的暴風雨,坍塌封閉了😭😭😭。身為一個奉公守法的優質旅客,我沒有假裝看不懂德文警告標誌,就乖乖地繞道走去辛特湖了。 到達辛特湖邊,就開始體會到它各式各樣的魅力。清澈的湖水就是百搭。在樹林裡的湖邊步道,樹枝樹葉和石岸會幫忙當畫框,搭配湖裡時而突出水面的大石頭,千姿百態的種種畫面,讓人走沒幾步就會驚嘆一下大自然的美麗。小鎮中心的開闊視野,又是另一番風情。不小不大的辛特湖,樹林草地的近景,山巒疊嶂的遠景,再加上變化萬千的山嵐,如果不下雨應該是可以待上好一陣子好好欣賞。 聽說這邊有完整的環湖步道,環湖一圈要大概兩個小時。因為雨勢來來去去的,我沒有環完整座湖,只有走不到半圈。但已經看到很多不同角度的美景了。 這邊要注意的地方是,辛特湖公車班次沒有很密集,有時候一個小時才一班。要環湖的話,時間要算準一點,不然可能得多等一個小時。不過如果天氣好的話,在這邊放空看鴨子游泳應該也滿享受的。 鷹巢 & 上薩爾斯堡文獻博物館踩點時間: Berchtesgaden Hbf 火車站 -- 20分鐘 公車838 -- 上薩爾斯堡文獻博物館 -- 買鷹巢公車來回票 -- 20分鐘 公車849 -- 鷹巢 -- 80分鐘探險 上薩爾斯堡文獻博物館 -- 90分鐘參觀 鷹巢 & 上薩爾斯堡文獻博物館注意事項: 到鷹巢的路很窄,不能自己開車,可以搭公車849或是自己爬山。搭公車849是最方便的選擇。 買公車849的票的時候,會有個預定回程時間。如果想改的話,上山之後會有機器可以幫忙改。 鷹巢附近有健行步道。記得穿好走的鞋子。 在鷹巢買明信片,可以請店員在明信片上幫忙蓋特別的章。 逛文獻博物館之前,要先到地下室把包包放進置物櫃。 要前往鷹巢(Eagle's Nest /Kehlsteinhaus),得先從Berchtesgaden火車站搭公車838到文獻博物館。下車之後過馬路繼續往前走,會看到明顯的旗子和標誌,跟著走就會到賣公車849車票的地方。參觀鷹巢其實是免費的,但是山路太窄,沒有開放讓大家自己開車上山。唯一的大眾運輸工具是公車849,票得另外買,出示Guest card有小小打折。如果不想搭公車,也可以爬800公尺上山,聽說要爬4個小時🤣。跟行前查到的資訊不一樣的地方是,買票的時候,售票員沒有問我,就直接先在車票上放個回程公車時間。如果覺得時間不妥,在山上有機器可以幫忙改時間,不用擔心。 買完票之後,就可以按照票上面的公車號碼,到對應的站牌排隊 (我的是Bus4,總共有Bus1-4,每次會四台公車一起發車)。票應該是不會超賣,每個人應該都可以找到位子坐。上山的時候,駕駛很貼心,有德文和英文的介紹。他們對於把公車全部換成電動公車感到很驕傲!本來上山的途中, 右邊 應該會有越來越開闊的風景。但這天的雲實在太多太厚,只有偶爾撇見灰灰綠綠的草地和小小的房子。 公車到站下車之後,就要走進一個隧道。隧道的底端就是著名的金電梯,可以快速爬升124公尺進入鷹巢。不過其實金電梯的材料好像是黃銅,不是真的黃金。那邊有規定電梯裡不能拍照,但有人拍也沒被制止🤣。 結果天氣差到不行,鷹巢完全被雲包圍,不時還下不小的雨,根本沒有能見度可言😭。餐廳的室內位子也都被坐滿了。幸好還有精心策畫的展覽介紹鷹巢歷史,值得好好看看。雖然下雨,我還是穿著雨衣稍微走了一下步道。大部分的地方都做得滿好的,感覺很重視防滑。不過步道本身滿陡的,大家要記得穿適合的鞋子來。 下山之後發現還有時間,就到了上薩爾斯堡文獻博物館參觀。事前其實沒有好好做功課,所以在這邊得到一些新資訊的時候,心簡直漏跳一拍。在這邊我才知道上薩爾斯堡Obersalzberg原來是個地名。Ober原來是上的字根。難怪Obersee會翻成上湖。還想說這邊離薩爾斯堡還有一段距離,為什麼要名字裡有薩爾斯堡🤣。上薩爾斯堡竟然還是希特勒很愛的地方。本來在鷹巢聽說希特勒去沒幾次,以為希特勒跟這邊沒什麼關係。想不到希特勒根本有個很有名的度假小屋Berghof在上薩爾斯堡。後來還在博物館的這邊,建了龐大的地下碉堡。希特勒掌權的時候,花了不少時間在上薩爾斯堡。在這個風光明媚的地方,做了很多可怕的決定。博物館的常設展 Idyll and Atrocity,實實在在地反映了這個諷刺悲傷的過去。 在看文獻展覽的時候,大家都很專心嚴肅。沒看到有人在拍照。走到地下碉堡的時候,龐大的走道、房間、通風系統,讓我看得瞠目結舌,覺得這碉堡好堅固好先進。不過還是沒有人在拍照。我想大家大概都覺得有些過去太過可怕,也許不要記得太清楚比較好。所以我也只有在逛的最後拍了一張照片。 因為文獻博物館五點就關門了,天氣也放晴,我又再去了一次藍紹教堂,想看看經典的畫面。可惜下午背光拍不起來😭。不過陽光下的教堂多了一點朝氣,單拍也很美。 The schedules/times are just my experience and are only for reference. Walk your walk and create your own stories! Activities for Ramsau & Hintersee : Berchtesgaden Hbf -- 15 min Bus 846 -- Ramsau Kirche/Church Ramsau Kirche/Church -- 50 min walking -- [ Zauberwald] -- 10 min walking -- Hintersee -- 45 min walking along the lake partially Hintersee -- 20 min Bus 846 -- Berchtesgaden Hbf Friendly suggestions/words of caution for Ramsau & Hintersee : Bus schedule on the internet might be different from the schedule at the bus station. It might be best to take the pictures of the bus schedules at the station at your earliest chance. [ Leave a message if you would like to have the pictures I took of the schedules (end of July 2024).] Morning light would be much better for Ramsau church. Use the restrooms near the church before embarking on the trail to Hintersee. Especially if you visit on a Sunday and most shops are closed. Bus at Hintersee runs not very frequently at times. It could be once every hour during certain periods. Walking around the entire lake could take 2 hours as I heard. It might be best to plan the trip around the bus schedule. Activities for Eagle's Nest ( Kehlsteinhaus ) & Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg : Berchtesgaden Hbf -- 20 min Bus 838 -- Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg -- Get the round-trip bus ticket to Eagle's Nest -- 20 min Bus 849 -- Eagle's Nest -- 80 min exploring Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg -- 90 min self-guided tour Friendly suggestions/word of caution for Eagle's Nest ( Kehlsteinhaus ) & Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg : The road to Eagle's Nest is narrow and not open to the public. Eagle's Nest can be reached by Bus 849 or hiking. Bus 849 should be the most convenient option. Buy the round-trip bus ticket at the ticketing booth after you get off Bus 838. It should be easy to spot the path to the ticketing booth. Guest card holders will get a little discount. The Bus 849 ticket will bear a designated time for the returning bus. It can be changed at a machine up on the mountain (where you get off Bus 849). If you buy a postcard at Eagle's Nest, the staff might be able to stamp your postcard with a special pattern. There are hiking trails around Eagle's Nest. Wear proper shoes if you plan to take on those. Some trails are steep. At Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg, vi sitors will be asked to put their bags in one of the lockers in the basement.
- 坐擁國王湖和阿爾卑斯山的Berchtesgaden, Germany [Act 1]
Date of visit: 2024.7.26-29 #Konigssee #Berchtesgaden #Alps #Germany -- Brief summary in English at the end of post -- 據說是一輩子一定要來一次的國王湖。趁著到慕尼黑出差,順便來拜託大自然好好療癒我。因為擔心遇到不好的天氣,也怕之後遇不到合併出差的大好機會,特別多規劃了幾天,希望順利看到被湖水倒映的藍天白雲和青山。 這邊是我實際踩點的行程: Day 1 慕尼黑Munich -- Berchtesgaden Day 2 國王湖 Königssee Day 3 藍紹Ramsau、辛特湖Hintersee、鷹巢Eagle's Nest、上薩爾斯堡文獻博物館 Day 4 (緩衝日) Berchtesgaden -- 薩爾斯堡Salzburg Berchtesgaden的景點們在地圖上長這樣: 交通: 慕尼黑 -- (3 pm) 火車 (4:30 pm) -- Freilassing -- (4:50 pm) 火車 (5:50 pm) -- Berchtesgaden Berchtesgaden Hbf 火車站 -- 公車840/841/843 -- 國王湖Königssee Berchtesgaden Hbf 火車站 -- 公車846 -- 藍紹教堂Ramsau Kirche 辛特湖 -- 公車846 -- Berchtesgaden Hbf 火車站 Berchtesgaden Hbf 火車站 -- 公車838 -- 上薩爾斯堡文獻博物館 -- 買鷹巢來回公車票 -- 公車849 -- 鷹巢 住宿: Hotel AlpinaRos 獨立衛浴單人房 到Berchtesgaden小鎮的時候已經是傍晚六點了。因為拖著個大行李箱,第一件事就是先去飯店辦入住。雖然我的飯店離火車站走路只要10分鐘,沒想到阿爾卑斯山立刻給我個下馬威,最後一段居然是個大陡坡 (火車站在山谷底端的概念)。一個大行李箱還算可以負荷,兩個行李箱感覺會很困難。而且我的飯店坐落在半山腰,小鎮的市中心其實還要再小小往上爬一點。如果你住在市中心,也許請計程車載你到飯店會是最佳的度假選擇。得把力氣留給山裡的健行步道才有更多美景可以看啊。 Hotel AlpinaRos是個對獨旅的旅人來說很優質的飯店。他們沒有把所有的美景都留給雙人房,才讓我有機會得到有絕美山景的單人房!飯店的人超級親切。幫我辦入住的經理竟然還會說幾句簡單的中文和台語🤣。可見真的很多台灣人去拜訪國王湖。 這次選擇住在鎮上,除了覺得方便,也是因為聽說可以搭免費的市內公車到各個主要景點。入住的時候真的拿到了所謂的Guest card (Gästekarte),不過其實應該是只能搭8XX的公車。鎮上也有一些公車會到遠一點的地方,像是薩爾斯堡 (通常不是8開頭的公車編號)。就算沒有要一路搭去薩爾斯堡,只是要搭個幾站不出Berchtesgaden小鎮,那些長途路線的司機還是會要求你另外買票。這邊似乎沒有分段收費的機制,所以一買就是可以坐到終點站的樣子。 辦完入住和欣賞完窗外美景後,想說到鎮上逛逛買個水果,穿著拖鞋就出門了,是個失策。Berchtesgaden是個美麗的小鎮。房子五顏六色的,不過大多是粉色系,很有溫和寧靜感。市中心有個本來是修道院的皇宮,可以預約參觀。這個皇宮似乎比較是行宮的概念,是皇室來度假的時候住的地方,沒有實際在這邊統治。我想說把時間留給其他行程,只有看看外面而已,但已經夠美了。 走著走著就發現有健行步道可以爬。雖然穿著拖鞋,還是不想錯過這個可以在高點俯瞰小鎮的機會。不過阿爾卑斯山真的不是普通的陡。推薦大家還是穿好走的鞋子出門,才能隨時輕鬆面對爬坡的挑戰。 很幸運地,第一個在Berchtesgaden的白天就是個晴天。立刻決定先去逛最重要的國王湖。以下是我大概花的時間,大家參考看看就好。旅行就是要走自己的路啊。 國王湖踩點時間: Berchtesgaden Hbf 火車站 -- 20分鐘 公車840/841/843 -- 國王湖Königssee 國王湖售票亭Seelände -- 40分鐘 電動船 -- St. Bartholomä -- 15分鐘 電動船 -- Salet Salet -- 55分鐘 健行 -- 牛奶小屋 Fischunkelalm -- 25分鐘 健行 -- Röthbach Waterfall 瀑布底 -- 30分鐘 爬山 -- 瀑布在眼前/遠眺上湖 St. Bartholomä -- 50分鐘 散步 -- 25分鐘 排隊 -- 40分鐘 電動船 -- 國王湖售票亭Seelände 幾個國王湖的特別注意事項: 很多地方只收現金。 國王湖湖區其實沒有比較冷。跟Berchtesgaden市區差不多。 從售票亭到St. Bartholomä的這一段,記得 坐在右邊 才可以享受不被擋住的視野。 上湖冬天會關閉,船不會開到Salet 。用作參考:Oct. 14, 2024 - Apr. 19, 2025 船只會開到 St. Bartholomä 從Salet下船之後到牛奶小屋的路,不是完全平坦的路。有些路段會有點小挑戰。 從牛奶小屋到瀑布底,雖然滿好走的,但坡度有點陡。 從瀑布底到瀑布本人的這段,很多地方沒有明顯的步道,也非常陡。請做好完全的身心準備,還有確定鞋子適合爬山。 從火車站到國王湖的這一段,其實有滿多8開頭的公車路線都會到的 (840/841/843)。市政府應該知道大家都想去國王湖🤣。公車站有很先進的即時公車動態報告,只要在公車站看看哪幾班公車快來了,再確定布告欄上的公車路線圖,應該是不會坐錯車。 一上車的時候,我把Guest Card秀給司機看,司機確認完Guest Card的有效日期之後就給了我一張公車票。這個應該是當天坐其他公車都可以用的,不用一直拿。不過我剛開始不知道,回程的公車又拿了一張。 到國王湖下車之後,要先走五分鐘經過一條商店街,才會到搭船的地方。買票的時候可以買不同的下船點。船有開到Salet的話,大家應該都會買到Salet去上湖看看。買到Salet就有包含在紅蔥頭教堂St. Bartholomä下船的機會。船票上沒有指定船班,總之就是排隊然後有船就搭。這天我搭到第二班船,很幸運算是排得滿前面的,可以選擇 坐在右邊 ,後來才有辦法不被擋住視線,親眼看到傳說中的紅蔥頭教堂景色。 開往紅蔥頭教堂的途中,工作人員有詳細介紹國王湖,不過只有說德文,我就專心欣賞風景。介紹完之後,就開始著名的回音谷小號表演。我原本以為只是會短短吹個幾個音,想不到剛開始試完幾個音,讓大家可以清楚聽到回音之後,就接著吹了一個樂章。吹得好好讓人瞬間被工作人員的才華圈粉。表演完之後,工作人員會從船頭走到船尾,鼓勵大家給小費。我覺得還滿有道理的。這份工作很不簡單。 回音谷。小號表演。Trumpet echo. 我們這班船特別的地方是,居然有一個人到Kessel下船。Kessel的港口感覺有點原始,應該是專業登山客才會探險的地方。所以我們先小小繞道到Kessel才繼續往教堂前進。快到教堂的時候,可以感覺到大家都興奮了起來。從湖上看紅蔥頭教堂的經典畫面簡直轉瞬即逝。好希望船可以再開慢一點。不過可以從國王湖上蒐集到藍天白雲搭配阿爾卑斯山旁的紅蔥頭教堂,我已經很滿足了。 到教堂之後,乘客應該可以選擇要先在教堂下船還是直接到Salet。我想說上湖和牛奶小屋是季節限定,就先到Salet去了。Salet的下船地點離山好近,很有被山包圍的感覺。離下船地點不遠的地方,就有餐廳和紀念品店。如果不想走到牛奶小屋,還是可以在上湖的這端看看另一端的美景。也很美很寧靜。 想要走到牛奶小屋的話,要確定時間還夠,因為來回要大概兩個小時。如果下午才到,得確定不會錯過回去的船班。去牛奶小屋的路,基本上是沿著湖走,所以有很多拍照的機會。那天是早上去,去程常常覺得背光有點難拍。不過到牛奶小屋之後,覺得早上的光應該還是比較適合。 Salet -- 55分鐘 健行 -- 牛奶小屋 Fischunkelalm -- 25分鐘 健行 -- Röthbach Waterfall 瀑布底 -- 30分鐘 爬山 -- 瀑布在眼前/遠眺上湖 看到牛奶小屋前面的景色,就覺得走一個小時真的很值得!上湖倒映的山景美到不行。為了犒賞走到流汗的自己 (以為湖區會比較冷,穿太多),當然得來杯冰涼的牛奶。牛奶小屋也有賣起司拼盤、三明治、和酒。不過他們只收現金,要記得準備。 在我搭配山景喝牛奶的時候,剛好碰到牛奶小屋補給船送貨過來。提醒大家,在補給船開過來的時候,如果在沙灘上,要注意不要擋路,不然小屋工作人員會對你大吼😢。 喝完牛奶補充完能量之後,可以從小屋後面的步道走向 Röthbach瀑布。這是個不太短 (單程25分鐘) 也有點陡的步道。得好好考慮體力和腳力。本來以為主要是看花草樹木的步道,沒想到快到瀑布的時候,出現整群在吃草的乳牛,而且牠們還戴著鈴噹。此起彼落的鈴聲,加上周圍的山,很像是個露天音樂會。 走到瀑布底端的時候其實有點小小失望。瀑布的水流很小,看起來又離很遠,沒有我期待的壯觀感。只好繼續往上爬希望可以看到更美的風景。行前爬文的時候,有人說瀑布這邊有三層景色可以看。但我自己爬完山之後覺得其實只有兩層:瀑布底端可以看小小的瀑布,和離瀑布很近的一個小空地,可以看瀑布還有遠眺上湖。不過爬到那個小空地的過程實在是很艱辛,好幾個很陡的地方,也常常沒有明顯的步道,好像大家都是憑自己感覺。 我到的時候應該算是還早,沒有太多人,所以沒辦法跟著爬。不過有遇到一組人,好像是爸爸先去探路,然後回來跟女兒們 (感覺應該都大學畢業了) 說這個可能太困難了,她們可能爬不了 (也可能是爸爸太擔心)。我拿出冒險家的勇氣自己繼續往前爬一陣子之後,發現再也看不出可以爬的路線。就在我準備打道回府的時候,突然出現一個裝備齊全的阿姨,跟我說應該走她那邊,還問我有沒有穿適合的鞋子。所以我最後就平安抵達神秘小空地了😭。 在小空地可以近距離觀賞瀑布,但我覺得可以遠眺上湖才是大加分的地方。望向上湖才了解到自己走了有多遠。從湖邊的牛奶小屋到瀑布旁小空地,幾乎花了一個小時,期間還經歷很多驚險的點。最後這段山路大家真的要做好萬全準備。下山的時候更要小心。因為坡度很陡,又有很多細碎的小石頭,下山的時候我摔倒了三次🤣。 St. Bartholomä -- 50分鐘 散步 -- 25分鐘 排隊 -- 40分鐘 電動船 -- 國王湖售票亭Seelände 下山回到牛奶小屋之後我又稍微休息了一下,喝了個酒精濃度很低的Radler。然後就走回Salet搭船去紅蔥頭教堂。下午兩點半到紅蔥頭教堂,遊客很多,餐廳也還是很多人。教堂內部很簡樸,也小小的,我只有短暫待個五分鐘。接著就到附近走了一個 loop trail。其中一段是沿著國王湖走,可以看到不同角度的國王湖風景。紅蔥頭教堂的附近有個遊客中心,有播放關於國王湖地區的水的影片。 走完trail看完影片之後,覺得國王湖的行程差不多了,就去搭船打道回府。結果遊客太多,等了應該五班船才搭到。不喜歡排隊的人要有心理準備。回程的路上沒有回音谷的表演,有點無聊。讓我更加感謝早上的工作人員讓這段行程變得更豐富。 It would seem a little impractical to have the pictures and words side-by-side again just in English, so allow me to be pragmatic and just summarize my trip in Berchtesgaden here. The walk you are going to walk and the stories you are going to create will no doubt be more important than what I have here. 🙂 Places visited : Day 1 Munich -- Berchtesgaden Day 2 Königssee Day 3 Ramsau, Hintersee, Eagle's Nest, Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg Day 4 (Buffer day) Berchtesgaden -- Salzburg Transportation : Munich -- (3 pm) Train (4:30 pm) -- Freilassing -- (4:50 pm) Train (5:50 pm) -- Berchtesgaden Berchtesgaden Hbf -- Bus 840/841/843 -- Königssee Berchtesgaden Hbf -- Bus 846 -- Ramsau Kirche Hintersee -- Bus 846 -- Berchtesgaden Hbf Berchtesgaden Hbf -- Bus 838 -- Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg -- Buy ticket to Eagle's Nest (Bus 849 included in ticket) -- Eagle's Nest Accommodation : Hotel AlpinaRos, 1 twin bed for 1 person, full bathroom Friendly suggestions/words of caution for Berchtesgaden downtown : Berchtesgaden Hbf (train station) is at the bottom of the valley while downtown is up on the hill. If you stay in the downtown area, it might be a good idea to take a taxi to the hotel, especially if you carry large luggage. The slope here is very steep. If you stay in Berchtesgaden, you should be getting a Guest Card that can be used for free bus rides within Berchtesgaden. The card seems to be working for bus routes 8XX (e.g. 840, 841, etc.). Some buses have longer routes beyond Berchtesgaden (e.g. going to Salzburg). Even if you want to only take a few stops within Berchtesgaden, the bus driver will ask you to buy a ticket (Guest Card doesn't apply). Wear proper shoes to be ready for any hiking opportunities. Many shops are cash-only. Activities for Königssee : Berchtesgaden Hbf -- 20 min Bus 840/841/843 -- Königssee Königssee/Seelände -- 40 min boat -- St. Bartholomä -- 15 min boat -- Salet Salet -- 55 min hiking -- Fischunkelalm -- 25 min hiking -- Bottom of Röthbach Waterfall -- 30 min serious hiking -- Close-up of waterfall/overlooking Obersee St. Bartholomä -- 50 min walking -- 25 min waiting in line for boat -- 40 min boat -- Königssee/Seelände Friendly suggestions/words of caution for Königssee : Many shops are cash-only. Temperature at Königssee is not colder than Berchtesgaden downtown. When boarding the boat at Seelände to get to St. Bartholomä, try and sit at the right side of the boat to get the best view. Obsersee is closed in winter. The boat does not go to Salet. As an example: the boat only goes to St. Bartholomä from Oct. 14, 2024 to Apr. 19, 2025. From Salet to the Fischunkelalm, the trail is not completely flat and is a little challenging at times. View at the Fischunkelalm would probably be better with morning light. Even though it means that on the way from Salet to the Fischunkelalm in the morning, the sun will be above the mountains across the Obersee. From the Fischunkelalm to the bottom of the waterfall, it is generally easy to walk, but the slope is a little steep. From the bottom of the waterfall to the small landing next to the waterfall, the paths are not really clear, and it is very very steep. Please be fully prepared. Shoes fit for hiking is a must .
- You are part of the human heart.
Sep. 15, 2018 at Circle in the Square ***有雷慎入*** 從開始認真抽音樂劇樂透票以來,已經看了應該不下五十部音樂劇。不過毛太多的我,還是沒辦法說哪一部劇完全符合我的胃口。有時候是角色設定,有時候是音樂類型,有時候是故事結局,有時候心碎太過徹底。所以到目前為止,還是沒辦法輕易說出我最喜歡的音樂劇是哪一部。也許就像人生不會完美一樣,戲劇也不會完美。也許片刻的美好就已經值得好好慶祝、細細品嘗。 這個部落格的第一篇文章,想要寫寫讓我感動很久的作品: Once on This Island 想不到看這部劇已經是將近六年前了。真的是歲月催人老。 這個製作是1990年首次在百老匯演出之後,時隔20多年,2017年再度在百老匯上演。這部劇的樂譜是由Lynn Ahrens和Stephen Flaherty搭檔執筆。除了這部劇,他們還一起寫了好幾部膾炙人口的作品,像是Ragtime和Anastasia。是百老匯有名的搭檔。所以這部劇的歌,好聽到不行不是沒有道理的。 不過這個製作讓我最印象深刻的部分是他們說故事的方式。在看這部劇之前,我看過的劇都採用中規中矩的開場方式: 觀眾入席,布幕升起,表演開始。這個製作特別的地方是,在表演正式開始的十分鐘前,演員就已經走到舞台上開始跟觀眾互動了。這個劇,是一個故事中的故事。是由海島村莊的村民傳唱祖先的故事。所以整個卡司剛開始就是村民。在表演正式開始前,演員們就跑出來做一些村民會做的事,像是打掃、整理工具、玩沙等等。最厲害的是,他們竟然牽出一頭真的山羊!還現場餵山羊!而Circle in the Square的橢圓形劇場座位安排,讓整個劇場更有圍著營火說故事的感覺。當表演正式開始之後,村民們就一個一個變成故事裡的角色。 導演Michael Arden在音樂的部分也用了一些巧思,在這個製作裡採用了非正規的打擊樂器(比較像是路邊撿來的東西即興變成樂器 XD),創造出特別的聲響效果。這個製作的選角也加入了性別流動的元素,讓演員挑戰跟原本角色設定不同的性別。雖然我去看的時候,已經不完全是原版卡司了,但大家的表現還是好到不行。 故事的主人公是一個叫做Ti Moune的女孩。雖然她很幸運地,小時候在一場大風暴後存活下來,長大之後卻成為了神的實驗工具。四個神想看看,愛是不是能夠戰勝對死亡的恐懼。過程中還牽扯到海島上的階級問題(很黑的黑人vs.沒那麼黑的黑人)和貧富差距。整個故事非常精彩,音樂也和故事交織得很好。這裡面我最喜歡的一首歌,是The Human Heart(中文不知道該怎麼翻才漂亮 XD)。我覺得很厲害的地方是,雖然這首歌從頭到尾都有合聲的部分,但前面基本上如果是獨唱也不會太違和。不過後面的部分合聲變得越來越重要,讓整首歌變成一首要很多人一起才能完成的歌,也讓歌詞的涵義透過音樂的部分體現出來。 看了這麼多音樂劇之後,覺得劇裡的角色們常常都在找自己。而我這個看戲的人,也是跟著他們的視角找找自己的影子。找找自己喜歡什麼,不喜歡什麼。有時候找到自己沒多久,又會失去自己一陣子。但這好像也沒什麼關係,休息一下,看看風景,再繼續找,會找到的。也許和人一起找,會比較快找到。所以如果這部劇有到你附近演出的話,就去一起成為part of the human heart吧。 The Human Heart https://youtu.be/DuVt8Q4dk6Y?si=293vzpFqkY_g8pPu (中文是我的不負責任翻譯) [Erzulie] The courage of a dreamer 追夢者的勇氣 The innocence of youth 年輕人的天真 The failures and the foolishness 那些失敗與愚昧 That lead us to the truth 是真理的指引 The hopes that make us happy 那些讓人開心的希望 The hopes that don't come true 那些從未成真的願望 And all the love there ever was 那些曾經有過的愛 I see this all in you 我在你身上都能看到 You are part 你是一份子 Part of the human heart 人類的一份子 You are part of 你是一份子 All who took the journey 那些踏上旅途 And managed to endure 也成功忍受風雨的旅人的一份子 The ones who knew such tenderness 那些溫柔的人的一份子 The ones who felt so sure 那些如此堅定的人的一份子 The ones who came before you 那些在你之前的人的一份子 The others yet to come 那些將來會來的人的一份子 And those who you will teach it to 那些你會教導的人的一份子 And those you learned it from 那些讓你學會的人的一份子 You are part 你是一份子 Part of the human heart 人類的一份子 You are part 你是一份子 This is the gift I give 這是我給你的禮物 Through your love you'll live forever 你的愛會給你永生 [Storytellers] You are part 你是一份子 [Erzulie] Forever 永遠 [Storytellers] Part of the human heart 人類的一份子 [Erzulie] Forever 永遠 You are part 你是一份子 [Storytellers] You are part 你是一份子 [Erzulie, Storytellers] You are part 你是一份子 Tonight 今晚 Tonight 今晚 [Erzulie] Part of the human 人類的一份子 [Erzulie, Storytellers] Heart ***Spoiler Alert*** Ever since I started my overzealous habit of signing up for Broadway lottery tickets, I probably have seen more than 50 musicals. Me being perhaps unreasonably picky, however, has made it difficult for me to say which musical is perfect for me. Sometimes it's the ending, sometimes the music style, sometimes the character. Sometimes the heartbreak is beyond repair. Maybe just like life is never perfect, theater will never be perfect, either. Maybe a brief moment of beauty is already worth celebrating and savoring. For the first post of this blog, I want to write about a show that has resonated with me for a long time: Once on This Island. I can't believe it's been almost 6 years since I saw the show. I feel so old now... This 2017 production was the first ever Broadway revival after its debut on Broadway in 1990. The score was by Lynn Ahrens and Stephen Flaherty, who, besides this show, also wrote other popular musicals like Ragtime and Anastasia. They are a famous writing team on Broadway, so it is no surprise that the songs in this show are so good! The most impressive part of this production was, however, how the story was told. Before this show, all the shows I had seen had the regular show opening: Audience gets into their seats, the curtain goes up, the show begins. The special thing about this production was that the actors came onto the stage 10 minutes before the official show time, before all the audience got into their seats. This show, as the title suggests, is about a story on an island (inspired by a Haitian tale) and is a story within a story. The main story is told by villagers on the island, so the show starts with the cast being villagers. Before the show officially begins, the cast would already show up as villagers and do things that villagers do, like sweeping, putting tools together, etc. The most awesome part is that they have actual farm animals, especially a goat! And they feed the goat live! The oval layout of the seats at Circle in the Square also makes it feel like people are gathering around a campfire to hear the folklore. After the show officially starts, villagers then transition one by one into the characters in the main story. Director Michael Arden also had a very creative approach for the music, where he included some unusual instruments (seemed to me more like some random objects picked up on the street) and created special sound effects. The casting of the roles also embraced gender fluidity and let actors play the roles that might be typically opposite to their gender. Even though it was not entirely the original cast when I saw the show. All the actors were amazing! The heroine of the story is a girl named Ti Moune, meaning little orphan. Even though she was lucky to have survived a huge thunderstorm when she was little, after growing up and enthusiastically praying to the Gods, she became the key piece of the Gods' experiment. Four Gods on the island wanted to see whether love could conquer the fear of death. Ti Moune’s journey also explored the social class issues on the island: black as night vs. pale brown skin, the poor vs. the rich. The story has many other great elements, and the music integrated very well with the story. One song very near and dear to my human heart is: The Human Heart. The masterful touch of this song is that, even though there is a chorus component throughout the song, the first portion can totally be sung solo and still sound beautiful. However, as the song comes near the end, the chorus becomes more and more critical. It would only sound complete when people come together as a whole, thereby manifesting the meaning of the lyrics through the music. After all, we are all part of the human heart, and we cannot walk through this life without others being part of it, right? After seeing many musicals, I often feel that the characters in the story are trying to find themselves. As the story develops live in front of me, I follow their footsteps to try and find a glimpse of myself as well. Find the parts that I like; find the parts that I don’t like. Sometimes I find myself, only to lose it again for quite a while. But it’s okay. Take a break. See some beautiful nature. Find yourself again. You will be found. Maybe with someone by your side, you will find it sooner. Next time this show comes to your neighborhood, go be part of the human heart. :)